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Maintaining your wood deck with TWP Stain.

8/29/2017

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Maintenance with TWP Stain is quite simple for surfaces previously treated with TWP Stain.  There is no need to strip off the old stain or to sand the deck.  Follow these simple instructions to keep your deck maintained and looking new for years.

Signs that your deck needs to be treated again with TWP.
Typically, your deck should be treated with a maintenance coat about every three years for surfaces that you walk on and every 5 to seven years for other surfaces such as rails and spindles.  Here are some signs that show it is time to re treat your deck:
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  1. The color that you applied may become lighter.
  2. Mold (Black)  or Algae (Green) may appear on the surface.
  3. Water no longer beads on the surface.
  4. Stain color wears off where there is a lot of foot traffic.

Preparing your deck for a maintenance coat of TWP Stain.
A light cleaning of the surface is all you need to do to re-apply TWP Stain.  There is no need to strip the old stain off or for any sanding.  To clean the deck, you can create a cleaning solution using the formula below or purchase our Deck Wash Pro product.

When cleaning we recommend using a 5 Gallon Bucket, Scrub Brush and a garden house.  If want you can use a pressure washer but you will want to keep the pressure down and the tip at least a foot away from the surface.  You are not trying to remove stain – just the dirt and mold that has built up over the past few years.

Cleaning Solution Mixture
5 Gallon Bucket – 75% Water and 25% Bleach with a half teaspoon of dishwashing detergent (liquid).  Wet your deck then using your scrub brush work the cleaning solution over the boards and rinse thoroughly with your garden hose or pressure washer.

TWP Maintenance Coat
Apply your TWP Stain as usual – for application instructions go to sealandprotect.com/application
Buy TWP online
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Staining Pressure Treated Lumber

6/21/2017

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pressure treated deck and stain
How long should I wait before staining my pressure treated deck?

Pressure treatment is a process that forces chemical preservatives into the wood. Wood is placed inside a closed cylinder, then vacuum and pressure are applied to force the preservatives into the wood. The preservatives help protect the wood from attack by termites, other insects, and fungal decay.

Some pressure treated lumber is already dried and ready to stain.  Dry treated wood is ideal because you can confidently stain it right away. To recognize it, look for a tag or stamp that says KDAT (kiln-dried after treatment) or ADAT (air-dried after treatment).

Allow treated wood to dry thoroughly before staining or painting.  It is recommended that you allow the wood to dry for at least 6 months prior to staining.  Test dryness by sprinkling the wood's surface with water. If the water beads up, the wood is too wet and you must wait before applying a finish. If the water soaks into the wood, then it's dry and ready for stain.

Over time, most treated lumber will shrink slightly across its width as it dries out. Take this small amount of shrinkage into account when laying decking or fence boards.  After being outdoors for six to 12 months, treated lumber will develop cracks, called "checks," along the surface of each board. These hairline cracks are a normal part of the drying process.

TWP Stain is a penetrating stain which means that it needs to penetrate the wood in order to provide protection, which is why you need to wait for the wood to dry thoroughly prior to staining.   

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Why Wood Weathers

4/26/2017

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Even though pressure treated yellow pine, western red cedar and redwood lumber are extremely durable materials, their useful lives depend upon their environment. Left unprotected, these woods suffer photo degradation by ultraviolet light (sunlight); leaching (water absorption into wood components); hydrolysis (as in acid rain attack); shrinking and swelling caused by water absorption into and evaporation from the wood; and finally, discoloration and degradation by decay promoting micro-organisms.

Photo degradation By Sunlight
Solar radiation is the most damaging component of the outdoor environment affecting every surface. The decomposition of the wood is signified by the gray color that appears. This fiber loss occurs due to the sunlight destroying the lignin, the so called "wood fiber glue". Rainwater washes away these "loose" wood fibers and decomposed lignin exposing fresh wood to start the process all over. In addition, microscopic cracks and splits develop, allowing deeper water penetration. This mechanism is very evident in exposed structures located in the southern states.

Moisture Degradation
The sun and rain cycle causes moisture fluctuations in the wood resulting in shrinking and swelling stresses. Deeper checks and splits develop from these stresses causing all wood to cup, warp, curl, split and check at an accelerated rate. This process is accentuated in Douglas Fir, Pine, Spruce and Hemlock, which experience greater dimensional changes than cedar or redwood, with moisture loss and absorption. Some of these dimensionally unstable species are common pressure-treated candidates. Osmose, Woman, Borates and CCA are common pressure-treat systems or chemical names. Therefore, protecting the wood fiber of pressure-treated lumber from rapid moisture absorption (fiber swelling) and moisture loss (wood shrinking) is crucial to preventing premature wood failure modes not associated with rot. Hence, maintaining long term water repellency of the wood is an imperative coating property.

Wood Destroying Fungi
The natural decay resistance for western red cedar and redwood is due to their heartwood chemical components, including the thujaplicins and a variety of phenolic compounds. The thujaplicins contribute to the decay resistance of redwood and cedar. The phenolic compounds and resins give cedar its water repellency and lubricity (slippery surface). Both the phenolics and thujaplicins are water soluble and accordingly lost during use. As these compounds are lost, wood destroying fungi colonies may develop in the wood. This type of attack is characterized by the wood edges becoming soft and spongy, stringy, pitted, cracked and crumbly. Fallen leaves, continuously shaded areas, dirt accumulation, and constant contact with moisture (sprinklers and a heavy dew factor) can encourage fungi growth. This type of attack is characteristic of high moisture areas such as the Pacific Northwest and Southeast United States.

Older Trees are Better
Another important consideration is that new cedar and redwood lumber is being processed from younger, less decay resistant trees since the old, high natural preservative content logs are becoming harder to find. The life expectancy therefore is shortened. These factors, coupled with an increased awareness of various environmental issues in recent years to protect old growth timber, are further reducing the supply for high quality wood. This supply shortage represents a price increase of 50% to 150% on prices for cedar & redwood and it is affecting southern yellow pine also. This leads to the obvious conclusion that taking care of aged, older wood has become an economic necessity on your house.

The Like New Restoration Process For Wood
Fortunately, wood can be restored most cases to that "Like New" look. However, the transformation process is tedious involving repair, mold and mildew removal, wood surface preparation (removing the gray) and coating application. The toughest portion of the process, in terms of time and the cost, is the wood surface preparation procedures - including mold and mildew removal. The most important single decision in the process is which protective coating to use. If the right material is selected, that rich gorgeous restored look can be easily maintained for years - per the latest testing results (shorter in high traffic areas). If the wrong material is selected, the entire restoration process may need to be repeated in as little as 3-6 months to maintain that desired look.

Organic Growth Removal and High Pressure Water Washing
Mold and mildew are the dark gray or black growth we see on wood. All organic growth must be completely removed through surface stripping, high pressure water washing or a combination of the two. The restoration professionals generally use a combination of the two to more efficiently remove the top layer of weathered wood (gray wood) and organic growth at the same time. The process involves application of a diluted stripper (best) or special wood bleach) followed by high pressure water washing.

- Cautions -
Plant and vegetation protection is important, particularly when using bleach or oxalic acid. Oxalic acid's main industrial use is to etch metal. It has a strong odor and can cause repetitive coughing to those close to the applied material. USE A RESPIRATOR. Packaged properly with special surfactants and detergents, oxalic acid based products can be much safer and easier to use than bleach. High pressure water washers can be damaging to property and dangerous to the operator. BE CAREFUL!
 
Selecting a Natural Finish
Now that we have discussed how to get your deck or patio back to that "like new" look, we must consider how to maintain that "like new" look---preferably for a long time. The bad news is that most natural finish materials look great initially but last for only a few months as evidenced by wood "graying" or loss of water repellency. Most semi-transparent stains and varnishes (known as film formers) do not fair much better, with cracking and peeling being a major problem. It appears that the more highly advertised the product, the shorter it's life expectancy. Now for the good news. In this section, we will discuss the latest Texas Forest Products Lab (part of the Texas A&M University system) longevity testing and how to select the easiest systems to maintain. These results are taken from standardized roofing coating test which are the closest applicable standardized tests for the simulation of horizontal deck applications. We will elaborate on why penetrating oil-base systems are superior to water-borne systems, film formers and varnishes from the performance and "maintainability" standpoints.

The Toughest Weathering Tests

What makes the Texas Forestry's work so significant for those living in Southern and Southwestern states is that the natural weathering tests are conducted at a similar global latitude to ours. This closely duplicates the tortuous sun exposure we experience in Southern states, plus adds the damaging impact of the extremely high Gulf Coast rainfall and humidity. Those in the Northern States can feel good about Texas Forestry's work since the additional sun exposure makes testing more rigorous than could be achieved in the Northern States. The most meaningful testing that the Texas Forest Service provides is natural weathering. They have proven that accelerated weathered testing for natural wood finishes has no direct bearing on actual field performance longevity. Natural wood finishes that have been exposed to what normally is translated to a 3-5 year exposure (standard 1000 hour test for paints) failed in less than 2 years when subjected to natural weathering exposures. Therefore, when companies talk about accelerated weathering as their only basis for performance or long warranties (and usually high prices with warranty backing), run the other way! Natural south facing exposure-testing for sun resistance and north-facing exposure for organic growth resistance are the only meaningful proven tests. Some new accelerated tests utilizing mirrors or black box exposure to magnify the sun's effects are showing promise but I am not aware of any standardized correlation's yet for these types of exposures.

Oil Versus Water-Borne Finishes
For wood, in most southern states, the sun is Public Enemy #1. The sun is directly responsible for the intense drying effects leading to cupping, curling, cracking, splitting and surface checking. Water-borne treatments do little to alter these natural processes, but some are effective at controlling mold and mildew. Therefore, oil-borne treatments are recommended since they replenish wood oils that have been oxidized by the sun or washed out by the rain. Proper high flash point parraffinic oils (the new industry standard) are not only oxidation resistant, but also do not contribute to wood flammability (a consideration mainly for wood roofs). Though somewhat more expensive, oil-borne treatments are recommended over water-borne materials because of their superior performance. Wood is the pipeline for nutrients. The wood fiber is basically a series of straws that shrink and grow with moisture loss and absorption. By absorbing oil, these straws tend to regain part of their original size which reduces internal wood stresses as well as the volume available to be occupied by water upon exposure to rain or any other moisture source.

Natural Finishes vs. Semi-transparent; Transparent vs. Clear
Most people prefer a natural wood finish (full grain character allow to show though without a painted look) to full body stains. By natural finishes we are referring to clear or transparent finishes. Semi-transparent or full body stains are "thinned" paints (lower in pigment and resins solids) utilizing inexpensive, standard paint pigments (colored particles). These standard paint pigments have a large particle size which, at least partially, hides the grain from view. On the positive side, these large pigment particles provide valuable sun protection for the wood and coating itself. Be sure to understand the difference between "transparent" and "clear" coatings. "Clear" means absence of color. Transparent coatings have a special type pigment that will not block one's view of the wood grain from which the name transparent is derived. These transparent-oxide pigments (trans-oxides) are expensive but when utilized in natural finishes provide the desired; an obstructed full view of the wood couple with the coating itself. The very small particle size "trans-oxides" appear to our eyes almost like "dyes" on the wood surface when used in routine concentrations. Neither manufacturers or the buying public can afford to place enough UV absorbers and light stabilizers in a "clear" material to provide adequate sun protection by themselves. The sun protection provided by pigments are as important to the longevity of the coating system as they are to the protection of the wood surface. Be informed that the true "clear" materials will allow the wood gray or age quicker as well as degradation of the coating itself will be accelerated over that experienced by trans- oxide pigmented systems. Pigmentation helps extends the life of the coating system resins (binder that holds everything together) By physically blocking the damaging UV rays from contact with substantial portions of the vulnerable resins. The benefits of pigmentation appear to increase as the sun exposure increases (in other words, pigmentation is more important in the southern states than the northern states). We always recommend pigmented systems for exterior use to maximize wood and coating system longevity.

Maintenance Considerations:

Film-Formers vs. Penetrating Finishes
The problems associated with materials that form a surface film is that they tend to crack and peel when failure occurs. That means that chemical stripping or sandblasting is necessary to restore the substrate to a true natural look for reapplication. This situation is generally true of varnishes and most semi-transparent or full-body stains. The look of varnish is exceptional, but most of the varnish systems that I am aware of fail by cracking and peeling due to wood expanding and contracting. Once that starts, moisture seeps behind the film causing water staining and lifting of the coating off the wood and creating the ideal conditions for mildew or mold growth. The only viable solution to remove the water stains and unsightly black and gray growth is to chemically strip or sand blast/pressure wash the varnish (expensive). Then start over with an application of a fully penetrating, transparent natural wood finish. Some people have tried to minimize out of pocket costs by painting over the peeling material BIG MISTAKE!! Within a couple of years, the peeling film former and trapped organic growth shows up as discolored, peeling paint. Now the size of the problem is much larger and the cost of the "fix" is much greater.
 
Does Preservative "Mean Better"?
Some products are called preservatives. The word "preservative" carries the connotations that a material named should be the best, long lasting product available. Unfortunately, this simply is not true. The word preservative legally refers to an EPA registered component in the product which will affect fungus growth. If the claim is made that a product imparts fungus resistance into the wood structure itself, the complete product formula must be registered as a preservative. This "preservative" registration does not address water repellency, mildew resistance (different from fungus), UV resistance, longevity of the system or anything else of importance. The top-rated roof and deck system is not a registered preservative because it contains only a registered mildewcide and makes no claims about preservative properties. Yet by effectively controlling ultra-violet light and moisture loss and absorption for many years, it out performs most "registered preservatives" by a very wide margin. Therefore, be aware that the word "preservative" by itself does not mean much in today's world of high performance coatings. But, preservatives can be very important components of some systems---but it is only one component.

The Best Solution: Penetrating Oil-Based Finishes
To date, the best solution to the exterior wood finish dilemma is to use penetrating oil-based finishes that do not form surface films, and hence, do not pose serious lifting or peeling problems when the time to reapply is apparent. The resins (binders) for these systems set-up in the wood pores and do not form continuous films in classical sense.  Maintenance then becomes as simple as cleaning the dirt from the surface, allowing the wood to dry and reapplying another coat.

Much cheaper, much easier, much faster than stripping or scrapping off old, peeling films. For restoration, the best of these systems contain a high percentage of free oil to restore the wood's moisture content as well as provide additional water repellency for the wood. The top systems in this category range in solids content from 60-97% (solids are defined as that portion of the system that will not evaporate upon use, or in other words, the important stuff that works). Generally, the higher the solid content the better. In contrast, many of the common name brand sealers on the market contain solids that range from 2-15% -very low. Besides being somewhat more expensive (for obvious reasons), The only drawbacks of these ultra-high performance systems are that they can take up to a few days to dry (particularly in cool weather) and soil somewhat more easy (routine rinsing and /or cleaning with dishwasher soap is a major help here). But the long-term protection and color maintenance is by far the best that is currently available for any type natural wood application.

The Natural Deck Coating Dilemma
The combination of foot traffic, pets, kids, sun, dirt build up and standing water (occurs every day if you have nightly dew) are very hard on deck coatings. Most of these natural finishes are designed to provide minimal blockage of the wood grain (essentially look as if they are not present) yet provide protection from everything. Long term color maintenance on decks is just not feasible with just one single application per deck. For roofs and sidewalls, 5 years of color maintenance in the southern states are capable of that life expectancy. Only a couple systems are capable of the life expectancy per the Texas Forest Service work.
 
The Expected Life of "The Best" for Decks
It is anticipated that the natural wood finishes with a high solids content when applied to fully exposed south or west facing decks will provided color maintenance for 2 to 3 years on aged wood in the southern states. These same systems generally provide longer term color maintenance as the sun exposure lessens or as one moves to a more northern climate. On new wood, a light coat should be applied to the wood to act as a stabilizer. This prevents the wood from splitting and checking due to moisture loss from drying and to get better penetration due to mill glazing. A reapplication of material and a light cleaning may be required after one year providing the wood with a penetrating finish.
 
Warranties, Do They Mean Anything?
I have seen people offering products for sale with warranties up to 30 years from purchase date. I have to laugh since we know there are only a few products that will last even 5 years on sidewalls and roof applications. These impossible warranties are offered by marketing people who believe they can sell anything - and they are usually right - until the market becomes wise to the misleading product performance. Normally the fine print says that 4 coats must be applied over 60 days and inspected by a company inspector or a power washing must be done every 6 months. One company offering a 25-year warranty required $1.20 to 1.50/sq. ft. be spent for coating material alone. The point of this discussion is to make you cautious when buying a natural wood finish and not fall for something that is too good to be true, because it probably is.
 
Important Points to Consider
  1. Finish must contain resins (plastic binders) to minimize uneven color loss and streaking. This problem can be particularly true of some water-borne treatments. Pure oils are always subject to water wash-out or absorption by rain or dew unless protected by a resin barrier.
  2. Make sure the product will "bead" water for several minutes - much like water beads on the hood of a freshly waxed car. The water repellency feature will minimize water penetration into the wood and reduce subsequent wood damage. When water hold-out disappears, it is time for another coat.
  3. Paraffinic oils generally have a very low odor compared to their naphthenic counterparts. This can be important in high density apartment a condominium complexes or for persons with known sinus conditions, chronic allergies or other known health conditions. The napthenic oils (referred to as roof or floor oils) commonly used in inexpensive siding and roof treatments generally degrade in 9-18 months based on Forest Products Laboratory work. Paraffins will last 3-5 times longer under the same conditions.
  4. Flammability test work (conducted by the Forest Products Lab on high flash point paraffinic oils) has shown that these materials have no effect on the flash point of the wood tested. This flammability work was comprehensive in that testing was conducted on fire retarded wood (cedar shakes), aged wood and freshly cut (green) wood with the same results.
  5. Material must contain mildew and mold inhibitors, particularly in humid environments or in the presence of large amounts of water.
  6. Linseed oil based products are not recommended for this particular microclimate. Linseed oil and other natural oils have some very good finish properties but contain glycerin and other sugars. To mold and mildew these act as a food source. Remember, natural oils are the lifeline of nutrients in trees or plants, and these plant nutrients will still support life - this is what we are trying to prevent from happening with your wood.
  7. Pentachorophenol and mercury are strong enough to do the job but are presently unacceptable for the environment.
 
Recommended Products
Based on Texas Forest Products Lab testing, the following products are recommended for homeowners based on availability, price and excellent performance.

  1. TWP Stain (full range of natural wood tone selections & grays) 
  2. Natural Seal Clear X-100
  3. Cunapsol 1
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spotting after applying twp stain in the rain

4/19/2017

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"It rained shortly after we applied TWP Stain to our deck and now there are a number of rain spots on the surface.  How can we remove the rain spots?"

Sometimes it is hard to avoid the rain when staining your deck.  As per the instructions you should try to stain when you have 48 hours drying time without rain.  Having said that, we know that Mother Nature does not always cooperate.  If it does rain and you get rain spots on your deck you can try the tips below.

  1. First try to remove rain spots using a rag soaked in mineral spirits and then lightly rub the wood.  This should take care of the spotting.
  2. If mineral spirits does not work you can wait 6 months to reapply the stain.  (you have to wait for the pours of the wood to open again so stain will absorb - otherwise it will lay on top and could peal off)
  3. If waiting is not an option - you can use our Restore your Deck kit that will strip off the stain and allow you to recoat.  Click the button below to purchase the Restore your Deck Kit.
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Lastly as always if you are unsure - feel free to give us a call with questions that pertain to your specific situation.  We can be reached at 404.865.1299
Restore your Deck Kit
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How to seal and stain your deck with twp

3/14/2017

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Step One
If your deck was previously sealed you will need to clean and or remove the product currently on your deck. You will need to determine what type of product was used previously on your deck. If the product was an acrylic based product you will have to sand the product off the deck.

Otherwise you can use a cleaner stripper such as, Clean & Brite to remove the old material with a power washer.

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Step Two
Choose your TWP Stain. You can use our online product wizard or go directly to the stain pages to choose your color. Click here for TWP Stain.

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Step Three
Be sure the wood is dry from cleaning or weather. Two days in the sun should be sufficient. Then be sure you have at least two days of dry weather when starting your project. To apply:

  1. Mix well using a drill mixer and continue to mix every 15 minutes.
  2. Place a drop cloth or cardboard under the edge for dripping.
  3. Use a garden sprayer (available from your local paint store) or paint pad apply starting with the rails - work up and down if using a paint pad. If using a sprayer do one section at a time and then go back with a paint pad or brush to feather out the drips.
  4. Next do the flat surfaces - do 3 or 4 board runs at a time (length of board). This way you will not be able to see where you start and stop. (this is called lap marks)
  5. Use a crack and groove tool to apply the stain to the cracks between the boards.
  6. You should only apply a second coat if doing it wet on wet. Homeowners should only apply 1 coat liberally - if you are not experienced it will show where you stop and start applying the stain.
  7. If there is any puddling you should wipe this off within thirty minutes to avoid tracking.
  8. The surface should be safe to walk on by the next day.

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Can TWP be used on IPE Wood?

3/3/2017

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Ipe is dense and oily, and consequently not very absorbent. When applying stain, the more you can get a piece of wood to absorb, the longer the stain will last. It is therefore important to make Ipe as absorbent as possible before applying TWP Stain.

Weathering is the best option, just as it is for cedar, pressure treated pine and redwood.  Weathered Ipe should be cleaned and allowed to dry before staining.

For those who don’t want to weather their Ipe, sanding with 60 grit sand paper and then solvent wiping is the next best option that we have found. After sanding and removing the dust, wiping the surface with automotive wax and grease remover will remove some of the natural materials filling the pores. Stain should be applied as soon as the solvent evaporates.

Apply as much stain, as the wood will absorb, wiping off any excess that remains on the surface 30 minutes or so after the stain is applied. Sanded and solvent wiped Ipe will typically only take one coat, but if the first coat soaks in, apply another. Weathered Ipe will often take two coats of stain.

The life of TWP stain on Ipe is typically half the life of TWP on cedar, redwood or pressure treated pine. If new Ipe is stained without any preparation, then the life expectancy is cut in half again.

We only recommend using TWP 100 or TWP 1500 Stain on Ipe Hardwood. ​
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NEW TWP Water-Based Stain

7/9/2014

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Designed for use on:
  • Decking & fencing
  • Shutters & fascia
  • Outdoor furniture
  • Siding, log homes & more
Benefits of using TWP® (Water-Based) WS Series:
  • Repels water longer
  • Resists warping, cracking, splitting and freeze damage
  • Stops UV damage
  • Mold and mildew resistant
  • Low VOC
  • Easy to apply and maintain

TWP® WS SERIES is a unique combination of chemicals that enhances the natural beauty and warmth of wood. The product is semitransparent and allows wood grain and color to show through.

TWP® WS SERIES penetrates deeply into wood without surface film build, highlighting existing grain patterns with amazing clarity and warmth.

TWP® WS SERIES contains water repellents which inhibit the damage caused to wood by water absorption and contains carefully selected mildewcides that inhibit the growth of mildew on the surface of the stain. The TWP WS colors contain special UV absorbing pigments which inhibit unsightly graying caused by the sun.

Refer to the Product Data Sheet (PDS)  for preparation, cleaning and application instructions. This product is for above ground use only.

TWP WS can be used for the same applications as our TWP 100 or TWP 1500 Stains.  When applied properly TWP Water-Based products will last longer than other TWP Products.

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See How TWP Stain is made

4/28/2014

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Will staining both sides of new wood provide better protection?

2/17/2014

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Many contractors will choose to pre-treat deck and siding boards prior to installation for better protection.  Yes it will provide better protection.
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Rolled on or Bug Sprayer?

2/10/2014

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What is the best way to apply TWP Stain on a Cedar Fence?

You can use a bug sprayer (garden sprayer) or a roller, whichever you prefer.  Refer to our application instructions for proper application.
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